Preparations took several weeks – selecting the right fabrics and components. This is how the new Play pattern for sweatpants with pockets and a sweatshirt with a stand-up collar and dropped sleeves came about.
I started preparing the patterns last year. In December, I planned what I would sew at the beginning of the year and what new things I would like to try. So I set myself a goal – to create a new tracksuit. Firstly, I wanted to test the elastic gathering on the sleeves and waist and that great stand-up collar. And secondly, it's trendy.
Sweatpants pattern
I learned and perfected a lot again on these patterns – not only me, but also my husband, who works with me on graphics and patterns in general. After rolling around watching fairy tales in December and skiing in January, we got to work and started modeling new patterns in two size ranges.
The first size range is for small children from 56 to 92. For these smallest sizes, due to diaper wear and growth spurts, the patterns are graded differently – it's not possible to use the same rules as for larger sizes. In practice, this doesn't work very well for me. Small children grow unevenly; sometimes you need to add 3 cm, other times even 6 cm, for the pattern to fit correctly. For older children, this problem is not as significant.
Therefore, we introduced two ranges:
- 56 – 92
- 89 – 164
I designed the sweatpants with deeper pockets sewn into the seam. This cut creates an interesting effect – the pocket isn't immediately visible, but it's still there.
I finished the legs with elastic. For the first test, I used 5cm galloon elastic – it was a nightmare. It was impossible to sew. I had to reorder the elastic, but instead of smooth, firm elastic, I received galloon elastic again. So I cried a little and eventually decided that rather than waiting for another one, I would try the 2cm elastic I had at home.
I originally wanted 5cm elastic, but it seems solar flares had other plans. So, the photos show 2cm elastic. And definitely – don't use galloon elastic!
Hoodie pattern
I created the hoodie pattern from a basic kimono block, which I modified so that the sleeve length reached just above the elbow. I really like this pattern in the photos and I am very happy with the result.
Again, the elastic was problematic – the galloon elastic didn't cooperate at all, so in the end, I used the smooth variant.
In the first test, I designed the neckline too short, so it didn't fit perfectly. In the second version, however, it was perfect. I used a metal zipper approximately 15 cm long. In the second variant, I also tested an endless zipper with an autolock slider.
And the result? Super! 🎉
Materials for sewing this pattern
For this pattern, I chose brushed sweatshirt fabric. I really like this material, especially for its beautiful soft and warm properties. For the brown sweatshirt fabric, I chose a fabric with a higher proportion of synthetic fibers, as this ratio gives the cotton non-creasing, shine, and fluffiness.
On the other hand, for the second piece, I tried 100% cotton brushed sweatshirt fabric with GOTS certification. This sweatshirt fabric also has its advantages, but it lacks fluffiness and doesn't have the same shine or non-creasing properties. Otherwise, both variants are fine in terms of use.
What other materials could be used with a similar effect?
- Waffle knit (100% cotton) – firm material
- Fleece
- Terry
- Wellness fleece
- Alpen fleece
When choosing a material, it is important to consider its plasticity and density. French terry or unbrushed sweatshirt fabric will not be as effective.
Other necessary components are the already mentioned elastic for the waist, leg openings, and sleeves, as well as a zipper.
For elastics, I recommend strong, smooth garment elastic – they hold well, create a great effect, do not lay flat or twist. Sweatshirt fabric is quite dense, so it needs strong elastic.
You can choose between a plastic, metal, or coil zipper – I have tried different variants and they all work well. You determine the length according to your needs; I chose a length to the middle of the chest.
You can find the fabric for this tracksuit here
Size chart
I put together the pattern based on three size charts. The first chart is for sizes 56 to 92 and respects the specific proportions of small children.
This part of the pattern accounts for diapers, their bulkier variant, and also the natural need for babies to sleep curled up. Therefore, the rise is longer.
For the smallest sizes, pockets need to be considered – unfortunately, it's not possible to achieve the same result as with larger patterns, and they might not even be necessary. Reducing the pocket to such a size was impossible, as it would then be largely non-functional.
The second and third size charts are for older children and I have them divided into boys and girls. In this case, I created a midpoint between the two charts. Where sizes diverge significantly (which is almost nowhere), I chose a compromise.
The tracksuit is UNISEX, so it respects both girl's and boy's proportions. Moreover, it's oversized, so minor differences between genders are not crucial.
Zipper for the stand-up collar
Let's take a closer look at these details, which you'll find in my pattern for the very first time. How to sew them? And how difficult are they?
A zipper in a stand-up collar can be a real fright. But it doesn't have to be. You just need to count on the fact that practically no one will be a master on the first try and you will simply mess up the first few zippers. I also messed up several attempts, and the first time it looked terrible.
Therefore, you don't have to worry or blame yourself for not being able to do anything if it doesn't work out the first time. On the contrary, be kind to yourself. It's about precision.
For some, it might help to stabilize this entire section with interfacing, for example, or by ironing on some stabilizing strip. Thanks to the underlined material, it won't be as prone to twisting, tearing, or shifting. And you will be calmer.
You can see the result in the last photo. It's not absolutely perfect either. But I believe it will be one day!
What to sew on?
- on a classic straight stitch
- overlock and straight stitch combination
If you only have a classic straight stitch, it would be nice to finish the back of the zipper with bias tape. When sewing with an overlock, it's not quite as necessary, but you can do it too. Of course, it will look even nicer.
Elastic in the waist and on the hems of sleeves, legs
The second element I wanted to make and try was gathered trouser legs and sleeves. The waistband of the pants and the waistband of the sweatshirt.
On the pattern, I first tried the 5cm galloon elastic, but I quickly realized that it was nonsense because it twisted a lot and didn't hold its shape. In the end, I had to use the elastic I had at home anyway. 2 cm had to be enough.
Even 2 cm of smooth elastic will be enough for you. But if you want the "ribbing" to be bigger and nicer, you'll add to it.
For the waistband and leg hems, you must add for the elastic in the waist according to the width you use. The same goes for the sleeves. This hem allowance must be incorporated into the pattern. This way, you will always get the correct result and the pants will fit where they should.
Test pattern
I sewed two pieces for the girls, several sizes apart, to verify the accuracy of the 3D models. And I was more than satisfied. In one case, I placed the pockets too low, so I will have to adjust them. But overall, I think the final result is great.
Ema - size 134, she is just under 129 cm tall and the closest sizes for her are 134. She is taller and more mature. I sewed from sweatshirt fabric with a higher proportion of synthetic fibers.
Megi - size 104, she is just under 110 cm tall and the closest size for her is 104 because she is generally smaller and very thin. I shortened the length slightly for her.
You can buy the patterns here:
- Play Hoodie Pattern 56 - 92
- Play Hoodie Pattern 98 - 164
- Play Oversized Sweatpants with Pockets Pattern 56 - 92
- Play Oversized Sweatpants with Pockets Pattern 98 - 164
- Play Sweatpants and Hoodie Pattern Set - 56 - 92
- Play Loungewear Pattern Set - 98 - 164
Thanks for reading and I look forward to the next pattern
