Helena Lachowiczová
2023-10-30T11:52:00+01:00

How to sew winter softshell?

The weather outside isn't great anymore, so it's time to sew trousers, jackets or overalls for children from softshell. And since it's autumn and the days probably won't be beautiful and warm anymore, I recommend sewing trousers from winter softshell with fleece right away.

How do you sew with softshell? What needles and threads are needed? And on what machine and with what stitches do you even sew softshell? Let's take a look at my personal experiences with this material. I have personally sewn several jackets and trousers for each of my daughters. I actually sew new trousers almost every year because my children are growing, but the younger ones reliably inherit trousers from the older ones, and I have never had to repair them or find them ruined. Softshell is really durable.

Every year I also sew jackets, either classic ones with fleece or thicker ones with teddy fleece (we'll look at softshell with teddy fleece in another blog, it's a bit specific).

What is winter softshell?

Softshell is a fabric that is entirely made of polyester. This means it has never seen natural fibres. But why would we want to sew with such a "fabric," right? Isn't cotton better for children? We certainly won't wrap them in plastic! However, this is actually very useful if you go out in all weather conditions.

Well, try sewing bad weather trousers from cotton, and then you'll agree with me that it probably won't be better. Softshell is a technical and utility fabric with a membrane. The membrane works by keeping nothing in and letting steam and heat out. The child doesn't sweat as much. But again, this is assuming that the softshell is worn in temperatures for which it is designed (for winter softshell, these are temperatures around 10 to perhaps -5 degrees Celsius).

Winter softshell is a fabric that has a surface texture more like a very smooth knit. Then there's the membrane, and then there's fleece on the reverse side. Fleece is a soft polyester teddy bear fabric. You probably know it from sewing sweatshirts, gloves, and hats.

Winter softshell is further divided according to its parameters. That is, we evaluate breathability and waterproofing. Softshell is not a plastic sheet, so it can let water through. And it will, of course, if the child splashes around in a puddle.

You can buy winter softshell here:

Suchedupky.cz - winter softshell 10,000 WP (waterproof) and 3,000 MVP (breathability)

Vecicky.sk - winter softshell 10,000 WP (waterproof) and 3,000 MVP (breathability)

Takoy.cz - same values as the previous two

Latkyagalanterie.cz - here they have 18,000 WP for 12,000 MVP

How do I choose the best softshell?

This is a bit more complicated because there's no single best solution for everyone. What's super and invaluable for one person might be expensive and unnecessary for another.

So how do you figure it out when you're a layperson and just want functional pants for your child, right?

Look at the price and parameters. If the softshell has high waterproof and breathability parameters (but what's high, right – here you need to compare individual softshells from different sellers), it means that the child will be able to spend more time outdoors but can also, for example, comfortably travel by tram without having to immediately undress. Softshell needs to let heat and steam out, and the higher the breathability number, the better it is in this regard.

If the number is low, it means that such softshell will only be okay for outdoors and in low temperatures. Is that clearer? Softshell with lower parameters cannot reflect bodily sensations and needs as well, and the child will sweat profusely after getting on a tram.

However, higher parameters mean more expensive softshell. Some people might not need it that much. That's why I say it's not necessary to buy the best one at all costs.

What needle to use for sewing softshell?

Softshell, especially winter softshell, is a dense and often stiff fabric. Sometimes, however, it is very elastic. This depends on the manufacturer of the fabric. Nevertheless, you won't make a mistake if you equip yourself with needles of strength 70 to 90. And you certainly don't need to reach for Stretch or Jersey needles. Universal needles with a semi-sharp tip will be good. There is no need to worry about skipped stitches here. Softshell will not unravel. On the contrary, we want the machine to sew as well as possible, and for that, we need durable needles that will not vibrate or break under the pressure of strong material.

But you won't go wrong with Jersey needles either. However, they may not form stitches well. Try more types - Jersey or Universal. And then choose the one that sews best for you.

What machine to use for sewing softshell?

You can sew it with a classic straight stitch. No special presser foot or other special settings are needed. The seam itself can then be finished (or "overcast" as it is called) on an overlocker. An overlocker will trim and overcast the edge of the softshell in one step. This method is by far the most commonly used in domestic conditions.

Yes. There are those who will discourage you from this method of sewing. In discussions, they will practically devour you for showing off a sewn piece that has been finished on an overlocker. And why, exactly?

It is claimed that softshell MUST NOT be sewn on an overlocker because the overlocker destroys it.

So, can I sew softshell on an overlocker?

Yes, absolutely.

And yes. Softshell is a thick material, it's hard to sew, but so are two layers of fleece, or thick sweatshirt fabric, or even denim. Often, sewing minky or several layers of thick cotton is worse for machines. The thickness of the material is definitely not something that should prevent us from finishing softshell at home. If we took it to its logical conclusion, you couldn't sew anything on the machine except light knitwear. And none of us buys a machine just for that. It's good to know that softshell mainly puts strain on the knife, which you'll have to change more often after prolonged softshell sewing. The motor is also strained. But it's not like you'll burn out your machine sewing softshell. No.

It's the same as if a dealer told you with a new car: "Okay, now only drive it on straight roads. But really straight and smooth ones. Because potholes wear out the car a lot, something might come loose somewhere. It's not built for that."

Of course, we know that. But we still have to drive the car here and there, and we can't buy an Offroad just because it's better for such roads. We also have to consider finances.

However, if you want to be completely out of the woods, follow the manufacturer's instructions, and if you think it's okay for you, don't sew softshell on an overlocker and rather avoid it. Of course, I don't dispute the manufacturer's instructions. I'm just saying what the normal practice is and how it works.

What stitches to use for winter softshell?

So let's get to the actual sewing. You definitely have several options. It depends on what machine you have, what sewing options you can use. And I'll also tell you why each option is better.

With a straight stitch

If you don't have an overlocker to finish the seams inside, I recommend sewing on a classic machine with a straight stitch. There's no need to choose elastic stitches here. A classic straight stitch is sufficient. The stitch length is important.

You set this by adjusting the stitch length (all machines in the lower price range and all more expensive ones typically have this as a basic feature).

Set the length to 2 or 3. 4 or 5 will be too long, and the softshell will gape open. A shorter stitch is ideal to keep it neatly bound.

In such a case, I don't finish the seam edges with anything. They are nicely soft and pliable. They don't scratch. And if I were to use a zigzag stitch, for example, I would make them scratchy seams.

With a straight stitch and topstitching

Another option is to sew the entire item with a straight stitch, then ideally shorten the seams with scissors and use the technique of topstitching the seams from the right side. This way, you achieve a secure seam closure against moisture and also flatten it.

From the wrong side, it will then be double-stitched. From the right side, only once.

With a straight stitch and overlocker

If you have an overlocker at home, then it's clear. You sew the piece on the overlocker and then stitch it again just before the overlock stitching with a straight stitch. Again, the shortest possible stitch.

I recommend then, for example, for trousers or even jackets, to topstitch the seam from the right side so that the seam lies flat and is not uncomfortable for the child.

Overcast the pieces on an overlocker and then sew them together

This method is not entirely applicable for me, but some people praise it. It involves first finishing all pieces on an overlocker before sewing them together. Only then do you sew the individual pieces together with a straight stitch.

This is advantageous for summer softshells, but I don't like to see it used for winter ones. The technique has one fundamental flaw. The seam is held by only one seam, and if you pull them apart and perhaps even topstitch them to the side, it doesn't work well.

Overcast the pieces, sew them, then topstitch with a bias tape

This method in a way eliminates the problem with seams stretching, which I mentioned above. Thanks to the bias tape, you hide the separated seam, strengthen it to a certain extent so that it doesn't stretch more than necessary, and thereby also help with the impermeability of the seams. Although not significantly.

Personally, I would only use this if my overlocker couldn't handle multiple layers of softshell and I wanted a nice finish inside the jacket. I wouldn't use it for trousers or overalls.

On jackets, the inner seams are visible, so you can hide them with nice cheerful bias tapes and give the jacket a pleasant look even on the inside.

Where to get bias tapes?

Suchedupky.cz - bias tape category

Stoklasa - bias tape category

Bubulakovo - bias tape category

Can I help with the waterproofing of softshell?

It's difficult. You won't easily do this at home. The problem is the disruption of the membrane. You always disrupt it if you sew a piece. It's therefore clear that it won't be a completely functional piece that truly keeps water out.

However, water really won't get into your trousers. Rather, they will get wet sooner, water will seep through sooner if the child crawls through wet grass. This happens around the seams and stitching, and then gradually over the entire fabric.

This cannot be prevented. The only way would be to seal the entire product and all seams at home with a moisture barrier, and that's not entirely easy. I once looked into how I could do it at home, and it's not at all simple, even for large sewing workshops. Technology is advancing, and you often won't find this even in domestically (i.e., in the Czech Republic) manufactured products.

Personally, I would therefore focus on making the softshell as functional as possible. I would focus on good layering of clothing. That means merino tights or leggings and a T-shirt underneath. Softshell trousers with fleece on top. If you're going into temperatures of -5 to -10, then I would recommend snow pants with another warming layer.

What to sew from softshell?

- Easy softshell trousers

- Easy softshell jacket for beginners

- Softshell overall for babies